On 3rd May 2022, hubby and I visited Kurikara Pass area and a roadside station in Tsubata town in Ishikawa prefecture. The place is famous for The Battle of Kurikara Pass. The Battle was one of the battles of Genpei War.
Here is some information about The Battle of Kurikara Pass that I got from the internet and have written it in my own way. Minamoto no Yoshinaka, commander of a contingent of warriors from Shinano Province, invaded Taira lands in Shinano, Echigo, Etchu, Kaga, and Echizen provinces in 1180. In 1183, the Taira sought retribution against Yoshinaka, and Taira no Koremori took charge of the operation backed by several others in Taira clan. Koremori approached the mountain passes which connect western Honshu to the east, and split his massive forces in two, one part taking the Kurikara Pass (between Tsubata, Ishikawa and Oyabe, Toyama today) up to Tonamiyama, the other entering Etchu Province through Noto Province to the north. Minamoto no Yoshinaka, seeing the Taira forces coming up Kurikara Pass, displayed thirty white banners on Kurosaka Hill a few kilometers away to trick his enemies into believing that his force was larger than it really was. This was a tactic aimed to keep the Taira atop the pass until night fell. Yoshinaka divided his own forces into three, sending one group to attack the Taira from the rear, a second beneath the pass as an ambush party, and the third he accompanied and held centrally. In order to conceal these movements, Yoshinaka distracted his enemy with a highly formal battle, beginning with archery exchanges followed by individual duels amongst hundreds of warriors. Meanwhile, Yoshinaka's armies moved into position, and during nightfall, the Taira turned to find behind them a Minamoto troop holding far more flags than the actual troop which gave the illusion of greater numbers. Yoshinaka's central force, having gathered a herd of bulls, now released them down the pass directly into the Taira army, with lit torches tied to their horns. With about 400-500 flaming bulls chasing the Taira warriors, many of the warriors were knocked off the path. Yoshinaka's other soldiers then charged down the north slope forcing the Taira down into the Hell Valley and Yoshinaka's ambush. The Taira soldiers fell into the valley one after the other and it is said that about 100000 Taira soldiers lost their lives. The surviving Taira fled after suffering heavy losses. This was a major victory for the Minamoto, leading to the Taira abandoning Kyoto.
We visited several interesting spots in Kurikara Pass area by our car. First we visited a roadside station named Michi no Eki Kurikara Genpei no Sato Takenohashi exit. The roadside station is located in Kurikara district of Tsubata town at the entrance to Ishikawa prefecture. There is a museum located inside the roadside station where we can learn about the history and culture of Kurikara Pass through panels, screens, and videos. A huge statue of a ‘flaming bull’ with torches strapped to the horns was displayed at the entrance of the museum. Two replicas of folding screens depicting the Genpei Kurikara Battle were displayed inside the museum. We loved looking at the wonderful details of the folding screens. We also saw a full body bear mount inside the museum.
Roadside station Michi no Eki Kurikara Genpei no Sato Takenohashi exit
Must-click photo with a few mascot characters at the entrance of the museum
I am standing with the statue of a flaming bull
Folding screens inside the museum
Hubby along with a collection of interesting historical artifacts
I am posing with a bear mount
Next we visited the Stage of Genpei Kurikara Pass Battle in Kurikara Prefectural Park. The park is located atop a mountain in Tsubata town. From the roadside station, we had to drive through a mountainous winding road and it took us about ten minutes to reach the park. In spring, about 6000 double-petaled cherry blossoms trees bloom in the park. Although it was the beginning of May when we visited, we noted that there were still striking blooms of cherry blossoms scattered all around the park.
Initially we visited Kurikara Fudoji Temple located in the park. It is one of the three major Fudo Myoo (Achala Vidyaraja) temples in Japan. This temple is the special head temple of Koyasan Shingon sect of Buddhism. A principal image of Kurikara Fudo Myoo is enshrined inside. Kurikara is derived from the Sanskrit word Kulikah which means black dragon of good fortune. It is said that Empress Gensho invited Reverend Zenmui (Subhakarasimha) from India who carved the statue of Kurikara Fudo Myoo, which was then enshrined in the temple at the request of the Empress in 718. Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi carved another statue, the same as the present principal image of this temple, and it was enshrined in a nearby temple named Chorakuji in 812. After the Meiji period due to repeated disasters, there was no building that could be called as the main hall of Kurikara Fudoji Temple. So in 1949, the main hall of Kurikara Fudoji Temple was rebuilt at the site of Chorakuji Temple and the statue carved by Kobo Daishi was enshrined inside.
Right at the entrance of Kurikara Fudoji Temple premises, we saw a Shinto shrine named Tamuke Jinja. Deities of Empress Jingu and Susanoo no Mikoto are enshrined inside. People pray here for road safety. It is interesting to note that Shinto and Buddhist buildings generally coexist in Japan.
Stairs leading to Tamuke Jinja Shrine and Kurikara Fudoji Temple
Tamuke Jinja Shrine
Shrine Hall
Next we saw Hondo Main Hall of Kurikara Fudoji Temple. The architecture of the wooden building was superb. We clicked a couple of photos of the hall from different angles. Homa (Goma) fire ritual is practiced and Buddhist Sutras are chanted everyday inside the hall.
I am standing in front of Hondo Main Hall
The Main Hall as viewed from another angle
We saw a small wooden building named Okunoin in the temple premises. It stands at the prefectural border between Ishikawa and Toyama (formerly Kaga and Etchu provinces). The statue of Kurikara Fudo Myoo carved by Reverend Zenmui about 1300 years ago is enshrined inside the building. This principal image is opened in the beginning of autumn every three years. However, the statue was open to the public when we visited in the beginning of May. It was probably due to the pandemic related delay as well as the Sakura Festival held that time.
Okunoin
Statue of Kurikara Fudo Myoo carved by Reverend Zenmui
In the temple premises, we saw a huge monument of a sword called Kaiun Fudoken. Such a sword is held by the deity Fudo Myoo and is supposed to bring good luck. It is about 15 meters high. Next to it is a standing statue of Shugyo Daishi, the person seeking enlightenment before becoming Kobo Daishi. We also saw a sitting statue of Kobo Daishi in a small wooden temple building nearby.
I am standing along with the monument of Kaiun Fudoken sword and a statue of Shugyo Daishi (left)
Statue of Kobo Daishi inside a small wooden temple
In yet another corner of the temple premises, we saw a small Buddhist temple dedicated to a deity named Oman Jizo and an equally small Shinto shrine named Hakuryusha dedicated to the deity Hakuryu Gongen.
I am standing next to Oman Jizo temple (left) and Hakuryusha shrine (right).
Next, we saw a five storied pagoda named Gojunoto located behind the Oman Jizo Temple and Hakuryusha Shrine. The vermilion pagoda is eight meters high and a principal statue of Kongokai Dainichi Nyorai is enshrined inside. The pagoda with a blue sky in the background looked wonderful.
Gojunoto pagoda
We also visited Wako Tower in the temple premises. The tower was built to commemorate the hundredth anniversary of the beginning of the Meiji era. It is a white colored tower and was built in 1969. The principal images of Dainichi Nyorai and Shugyo Daishi are enshrined inside. The tower area offered us a wonderful view overlooking the Tonami Plain and Oyabe City.
Wako Tower
Wonderful view from the tower area
After enjoying the temple architecture and the surroundings, we walked further in the park and reached Basho Mound. The place has a stone inscription of a Haiku poem written by Matsuo Basho during his travel through the region. Basho was the most famous poet of the Edo period. Unfortunately we missed clicking the photo of the stone inscription itself and took a photo of the description notice.
I am standing next to the notice describing about the stone inscription of Haiku written by Matsuo Basho
Right next to the Basho Mound, we saw life-sized statues of a pair of flaming bulls. As I have written earlier, bulls with lit torches tied to their horns were used by the forces of Minamoto to ambush Taira warriors. Taira soldiers were knocked off their path and fell into the Hell Valley.
I am posing along with the statues of a pair of flaming bulls
One of the flaming bulls and I
We walked further along the walking trail and saw an observation deck in the park. We got beautiful views of the nature and Oyabe city from the deck. It was so peaceful to see so much greenery all around.
View from the observation deck in the park
Hubby posing at the observation deck
Next, we saw an inscribed stone monument named ‘Genpei Kurikara Gassen Honjin’ at a place called Sarugababa in the park. The monument is located at an area where the general of the Taira forces, Taira no Koremori, set up his headquarters.
An inscribed stone monument
After walking along the trail in the park for some more time, we decided to head back home. But after about five minutes of drive, we saw a fantastic spot to explore. We saw a wooden board at the spot which described that the secondary Taira force was based at that mountainous area. Looking down we could see the Hell Valley right in front of us.
I am standing along with the wooden board describing about the secondary Taira force that was based at this mountainous area.
Hubby is posing along with the Hell Valley in the background.
We decided to walk along the mountain trail and imagined how the battle was carried out by the Taira and Minamoto troops. The iron staircase trailhead was rusted and I was initially a bit apprehensive of climbing up the stairs. The trekking route was up the mountain and a bit tricky to walk. Along the trail, we saw a wooden marker indicating that the place was the site of Genji Gamine Castle. The site is located in the present day Oyabe city in Toyama prefecture. The secondary force of Taira was based at this mountain castle located at an altitude of 240 meters. Walking further along the trail we saw a stone monument indicating the ruin site of the castle. Walking along the trail and imagining the history was so thrilling. Here are some of the photos of our walk along the mountain trail.
A wooden marker indicating that the place was the site of Genji Gamine Castle.
Walking along the trail was a bit tricky.
Climbing up the wooden steps along the trail
Another notice indicating that the site was the base of the secondary force of Taira.
View of the Hell Valley below us
Stone monument erected at the ruin site of Genji Gamine Castle.
Wonderful scenery as viewed from the mountain top ruin site of the castle.
After visiting Genji Gamine Castle ruin site, we left the park. We enjoyed visiting the roadside station Michi no Eki Kurikara Genpei no Sato and Kurikara Prefectural Park. It was a learning experience for me.
