Kazuo and I visited a temple named Noma Daibo on 17th March. Noma Daibo, formally named Kakurinzan Omidoji Temple, is located in Mihama town of Chita peninsula in Aichi prefecture. The temple belongs to Shingon sect of Buddhism. It was established as Amidaji Temple in the era of Emperor Tenmu in the middle of 7th century. It was renamed as Omidoji Temple and was known as a temple to pray for the prosperity of Emperor Shirakawa and his imperial family during the 11th century. The temple is famous for the grave of the great warrior Minamoto no Yoshitomo, father of the first Kamakura Shogun Yoritomo and Yoshitsune. Yoshitomo was killed at a bathhouse near the temple in the 12th century and was buried in the temple precinct.
We visited Noma Daibo Temple by car as it is an easier mode of transport for us. From the car parking lot of the temple, we saw many wonderful wooden buildings of the temple. First we saw a beautiful wooden belfry called Shoro-do. The bell was donated by the fifth shogun of Kamakura, Yoritsugu. It is designated as an important cultural property of Aichi prefecture.
Belfry
Next, we saw the Hondo Main Hall of the temple. It is a wooden building with an amazing roof. The previous main hall buildings caught fire thrice and the current building was built in 1754. The ceiling has colorful beautiful paintings. The building is designated as an important cultural property. We clicked a couple of photos of the Main Hall.
Hondo Main Hall
I am standing in front of the Main Hall
The principal Buddhist image of Amida Sanzon (Amida triad) is enshrined inside Hondo Main Hall. Amida Sanzon consists of a central sitting statue of Amida Nyorai flanked by two standing attendants on either side. The statue on the right side is Kannon and on the left is Seishi. All the statues of the triad were hand crafted by a sculptor named Kaikei in the late Fujiwara period. The central statue of Amida Nyorai is designated as important cultural property of the prefecture. The statues of the attendants are designated as important cultural properties of Mihama town. Minamoto no Yoritomo donated these statues to the temple to memorialize his father Minamoto no Yoshitomo who was murdered nearby. Since the principal images had fulfilled the wishes of Yoritomo, the temple has gained significant faith for fulfilling prayers, wishes, and good luck amongst its visitors. I offered some money at the donation box kept in front of the Main Hall and prayed for peace and health of everyone. I also picked up an Omikuji fortune slip by offering 100 Yen at a counter, and was pleasantly surprised to see my luck as ‘Daikichi - number 1’.
Amida triad enshrined inside the Main Hall
I am holding an Omikuji fortune slip with ‘Daikichi – number 1’
Next, we saw the grave site of Minamoto no Yoshitomo located right alongside the Main Hall in the temple premises. Let me briefly talk about Yoshitomo. In 1159, the Minamoto and the Taira clans, once close, had become bitter enemies. Yoshitomo was defeated by Taira no Kiyomori in the Heiji Rebellion and fled the capital, Kyoto, for Chita peninsula in modern day Aichi Prefecture. In the village of Noma, Yoshitomo stayed at the residence of Osada Tadamune, Yoshitomo’s retainer Kamata Masakiyo’s father-in-law, who betrayed Yoshitomo for a reward from the Taira clan and killed him when he was taking a bath. Naked and unarmed, Yoshitomo was an easy target. Surrounded by the enemy, his last words were ‘If I had even a wooden sword,’ before being slain. Two of his sons survived, and one of them, Yoritomo, later defeated Taira no Kiyomori and established Minamoto dominance over all of Japan.
Entrance to Minamoto no Yoshitomo’s grave site
Yoshitomo’s grave is enclosed by low stone wall and is surrounded by wooden swords. Nowadays visitors to the warrior’s grave leave gifts of wooden swords in the belief that those who dedicate a sword will have their prayers answered. Because of this, the grave itself is always covered in a variety of wooden swords. A kiosk nearby sells small wooden sword shaped stakes for 500 yen. Kazuo also paid his respect by offering a wooden sword at the grave.
Grave of Yoshitomo surrounded by wooden swords
Kazuo offering a wooden sword at the grave
Surrounding Yoshitomo’s central grave are several graves. One of the graves is that of his retainer, Kamata Masakiyo who on discovering the murder plot was stabbed twice by the traitor. There is also the grave of Ike no Zenni who was the step mother of Taira no Kiyomori. When Yoshitomo was killed, she begged her stepson to spare the life of Yoshitomo’s son Yoritomo. The site also has the grave of the third son of Oda Nobunaga, Oda Nobutaka, who took his own life at Noma Daibo after being ousted from Gifu Castle in 1583. We offered prayers and paid our respects at all the graves.
Grave of Kamata Masakiyo and his wife
Grave of Ike no Zenni
Grave of Oda Nobutaka
Next we visited the ruins of the bathhouse where Minamoto no Yoshitomo was killed. It is located about 1.5 kilometers east of Noma Daibo Temple. Yoshitomo was invited to stay at the residence of Osada Tadamune. However, Tadamune betrayed Yoshitomo for a reward from Taira clan. On the third day of 1160, Yoshitomo was attacked and killed while taking a bath by Tadamune and his son. The ruins of the bathhouse can still be seen. The bathhouse is designated as an important cultural property (historic site) of Mihama town.
Ruins of the bathhouse and a statue of Minamoto no Yoshitomo at the ruin site
Ruins of the bathhouse
I am pointing at the bathhouse and imagining the end of Yoshitomo’s life
Kazuo standing in front of the statue of Yoshitomo
We loved visiting Noma Daibo Temple and the ruins of the bathhouse where Minamoto no Yoshitomo was killed. It was so interesting to learn the history of the times gone by.
